Take a perfectly self-contained, natural, oven-ready veg. Wrap it tightly, Twin-Peaks style, in plastic. Triple the price.
At a dollar apiece, the Potatoh! comes in a special micro-perforated plastic and is supposed to give you an oven-baked crunch in a microwave-cooked potato.
We laugh at the individually wrapped superspud, but let's give this modern-age Tang a try:
Potatoh! after seven minutes of microwave. ©Suzy Allman
Good potato. The skin isn't crispy the way it is when it cooks in the oven. The wrap is FDA approved. It screams as it cooks in the microwave chamber, a shriek you have to hear to believe. Try not to listen.
And, really: do you really want to pay a triple for a potato wrapped and cooked in plastic? Isn't the potato already perfectly convenient? Can we at least hold the line on packaging at the spud? Farther down the produce aisle, fresh apples, sliced and individually wrapped in plastic and packaged again, reclined seductively beside the packaged carrot sticks.



